Episode 8 Jill Wolcott
I am trained as a fashion designer with a focus on garment construction and pattern making. Knits allow me to create both the fabric and the shape. I am always thinking about knitted things and how to guide knitters and designers toward a successful outcome.
I teach professional development courses, notably A System of Grading, which teaches how to grade using sizing tables, and all the ins and outs of using those numbers to create shapes and styles. My sizing tables are widely used in other classes and by other designers. I am a knitting geek and will spend untold hours perfecting how to do something so I can explain it in my patterns or writing.
I have a blog which covers everything from what I need to get done, to how to adjust a sweater for a better fit. I think knitting is a metaphor for life, and I often find surprising things when creating patterns, writing, drawing, or knitting. I love to teach and enjoy sharing all the things I have learned.
I taught line development and portfolio development classes, among others, at FIDM, from 2000 to 2016, frequently received student-given awards.
I am developing a new way of looking at sizing and fit that begins with the skeleton, and works outward. This is a way to consider all the things needed for size inclusivity. At the same time I am working with my intern to develop Pattern Calculators as an add-on to written knitting patterns which put more control in the hands of the knitter, with guidance from me!
I have a line of knitting patterns and eBooks. I am co-author, and illustrator, of YNotKnit: Step-by-step instructions for Continental knitting and knitting basics (https://tinyurl.com/3ph8pa47). Of course I am working on other books. I love what I do and work at my craft every day.
All my links. Basically, I am JillWolcottKnits most places.
My Website, Blog, Newsletter, Patterns:
Other sites selling my patterns:
Creative Industry Alliance https://craftindustryalliance.org/
Other links we discussed such as ASTM size charts were also shared in Episode 7, Grading. As there has been a great deal of change since Jill purchased her book, please see Episode 7 show notes for links.
Jill would like to share discount coupon codes with our listeners.
Class discounts: knitdesigneditclass through 12/31/22
Amalfi pattern discounts: knitdesigneditamalfi through 10/31/22
Info on https://www.jillwolcottknits.com/knitdesignedit/
Episode 7 Grading
Denise and I discuss Grading, what it is, how you do it, and why it’s an art rather than a science. Should you wish to try to grade your garment yourself I have included links to the most commonly used size charts for garments as well as to classes that help to prepare you for the process.
Size Charts for PurchaseASTM—American Society for Testing and Materials
- Standard Tables for Body Measurements for Plus Women’s Figure Type, Size Range 14W – 40W
- Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Adult Female Misses Figure Type, Size Range 00–20
- Standard Tables of Body Measurements for Young Men Type, Size Range 32 – 48
- Standard Tables for Body Measurements for Mature Big Men Type, Size Range 46–64
Free Size Charts
Classes for Learning Grading
- The Tech Editor Hub Masterclass on Grading: currently closed, you can join their mailing list to be alerted to when it will open again
Episode 6: Erin Clayton, Erineen Designs
Denise and I talk with Erin Clayton of Erineen Designs. Erin is both a knitwear and a graphic designer. She works with other designers and fiber artists to create beautiful logos and full branding packages. In recent months, Erin has branched out into creating workshops for designers including her newest: Improve Your Pattern Layout Masterclass. You can find all Erin’s design packages and workshops by visiting her Work With Me page (https://erineendesigns.com/workwithme-1) on her website. Find her also on Ravelry, Instagram, and Payhip as Erineen Designs.
Software mentioned by Erin:
When talking about her design philosophy and planning process, Erin talked about the Bento Box. Denise informed us it was Japanese and you can see examples here.
Episode 5: The Design Process
I ask Denise questions about her process for creating the two one-of-a-kind wedding dresses she has made in the last few years. We discuss where the inspiration came from as well as how she decided on materials, stitches to be used, and how she made all the decisions regarding shape and design. Then we examined how she could use technology to record audio and video alongside taking notes so that next time she could write the pattern when she was done.
While this was Denise’s process, it’s important to remember these were one-of-a-kind dresses and the intention was never to recreate them with a pattern. In some cases, the designer might wish to do all the pattern writing first and then test knit a sample.
During the discussion Denise mentions Jennifer Lopez’s Dress from “Marry Me.” It weighed 95 pounds. You can see pictures and read about it here. https://www.instyle.com/celebrity/jennifer-lopez/jennifer-lopez-marry-me-wedding-gown
Books that can help in understanding how to write a pattern:
Complete Crochet Course, Shannon and Jason Mullet-Bowlsby on Amazon
The Beginner’s Guide to Writing Knitting Patterns by Kate Atherly on Amazon
Note: If anyone knows of a book or class specifically on Crochet Pattern Writing, please post in either the Facebook or Ravelry groups or email me.
Episode 4: Interview with Randy Finley
Randy is a retired Police Detective and Intellectual Property Attorney. He shares with us his research, based on US copyright law, on what is and is not copyrightable about patterns, what needs to be in a copyright statement to make it defensible, and what actions you may need to take should there be a question about your copyright. Throughout our discussion he gave examples of what may or may not protect you as a designer as well as what you as a designer needs to do to ensure your pattern is unique enough to be copyrightable.
Randy shared the following links where you can learn more.
Sewing Pattern Copyright Law – Myths Debunked
Knitting Patterns and Plagiarism
Patterns and Copyright Protections
Copyright Law: Crochet and Knit Patterns and Designs (Randy noted that this site was especially useful thanks to links to even more information.
Episode 4: Style Sheets
I try to answer “What is a Style Sheet”, how you create one, and when you may want to use one.
We also talk about Denise’s books. Modern Fairytale, Michigan Madness will be available on Amazon again soon and the other 3 in the series are coming in the next months.
See Episode 9 for updated information on where to find Denise’s books.
And I share my first pattern, inspired by Denise and her love affair with her husband and the books she wrote about it. This link is to the pattern on Ravelry, Modern Fairytale: The Shawl.
Episode 2: Interview with Nathan Taylor, the Sockmatician
Known across the knittersphere as Sockmatician, Nathan Taylor is an accomplished knitwear designer, teacher, and technique innovator. A long-term devotee of double-knitting, he continues to push the boundaries of what is possible within the field of multi-layered knitting, and has pioneered and developed many off-shoot and extended techniques, centered around the double-knitting rules, including triple-knitting, four-color triple-knitting, multi-marled double-knitting, and the subject of his forthcoming eBook, double-knitted brioche. His first book, Guys Knit, a beginner knitter’s instruction manual was published by Haynes in 2018. He has taught advanced knitting techniques at shows and festivals all over the world, and had patterns published in many international magazines. For more information, visit www.sockmatician.com. He can also be found on Ravelry, YouTube, and Instagram.
When not knitting, Nathan is an actor, and has worked in musical theatre in the West End, on tour, and across Europe, over the period of more than a quarter of a century.
In Episode 2 we had the great pleasure of interviewing Nathan. We talked about his design story and inspirations, how he fell into teaching, and his love of innovation. I truly believe if it can be done, Nathan will find a way to do it, and he will inspire us all as he goes.
Below see his wonderful and quirky “Pink Panther” knit when he was a child. And his first Double Knit Scarf pattern, Ravelry link: Perplexus
Episode 1: What is a Tech Editor
Denise asks about the ins and outs of being a tech editor. I do my best to describe my job and the skills needed to do it. We chat just a little about options for tech edit training.
The following list are sites that offer classes in Tech Editing:
- The Tech Editor Hub, has classes in editing, grading, marketing, designing, and schematic drawings.
- Fiat Fiber Arts is a Crochet tech editor that shares her knowledge with new tech editors as well.
- Cool Wool Designs teaches both Crochet and Knit tech editing and is located in the UK.
- The Knitters Guild Association offers a knit tech editor course along with a course for designers and many others.
Please note that these are not affiliate links and we get nothing if you choose one of these classes or to order any of Peggy Erhart’s fun mysteries.
Episode 0: Our Introduction
In this episode we introduce ourselves, let you know just what you can expect in future episodes and generally let you in on what we want this podcast to be for you.